Blue Calla Iris Sewalong Day 2

Thanks for joining us as we continue with the Blue Calla Iris Convertible Shoulder Bag sewalong. Here’s a recap of the schedule:

• Day 1  – Fabric, interfacing, and hardware selection and gathering. Printing of pattern, and cutting and fusing fabric and interfacing.
• Day 2 –  (that’s today!) We begin sewing the bag.
• Day 3  – Final assembly and completion of bag

A note about this sewalong: this is not meant to replace the pattern’s instructions. You will likely need to refer to the pattern for some steps.

I like to start my bags by making the straps. I don’t know why, I guess I just like having one part completed early on. I used vinyl for my shoulder straps. I started by drawing a line down the vertical center on the wrong side of the straps. Then I used my wonder tape (called DST in the pattern) on either side of the line – one piece of wonder tape with backing is shown here:

Once wonder tape is in place, fold each outer edge in toward the center line and press down. I used my Hera marker to make a firm crease in the vinyl. Fold again, to match both folded edges, making the piece now 1″ wide. Use clips to hold folded edges together. Stitch first along joined edge at about 1/8″ seam allowance with a longer stitch length, then repeat along remaining edge; complete these steps for both shoulder straps. Set aside for now. A note about sewing vinyl: if your stitch length is too short, the stitching will perforate the vinyl and make it tear easily; if you want to reinforce your stitching, make sure your backstitch goes through the same stitch holes as the first stitching, or sew a separate row of stitching.

If you’re using fabric for your straps, follow these instructions, but omit the wonder tape, and press with an iron with each step involving folding.

Repeat same process for adjustable strap, except creating 1.5″ wide strap.

I also like to make my connectors at this point. As mentioned in Day 1, I like to simply sew a 6″ long strap and cut in half. The connectors are made the same way as the straps: folding in outer edges to meet in the center, then folding again, to match folded edges, and stitching along each long edge.

For my bag, I have one pocket. If you decided to add a second pocket, just repeat this process to create an additional pocket. To start the exterior of the pocket, we’ll be creating a pocket. Place exterior and lining B pieces right sides together and stitch together along the top edge. Turn so they are wrong sides together and topstitch along the top edge (I like a longer stitch length for topstitching). Place assembled piece on top of a middle panel A, matching up bottom and sides, and baste stitch along each side.

Pin or clip one side panel G to each side of the assembled pocket, attach the other 2 side panel Gs to the remaining middle panel A. I do this step all at the same time, as I find it makes it go quicker.

Press each seam allowance toward the side panels and topstitch the seams.

The next step is creating the flap. For my pocket flap, I used vinyl for the “exterior” and interfaced quilting cotton for the “lining”. To install the magnetic snap, make a small mark about 1.5″ from the bottom of the flap piece, centered side to side on the “lining” flap.

Use the washer that comes with the magnetic snap to mark slits, matching the mark you made as mentioned above in the center of the washer. I like to use my seam ripper to cut tiny slits. You want to make sure the slits aren’t too big. You’ll also need to reinforce the back of the lining fabric with a scrap piece of foam, fleece, or peltex for the magnetic snaps to go through as well so your material doesn’t tear through.

Once your snap is installed, place both flap pieces right sides together and sew along all sides except the top edge. Trim seam allowance and turn right side out, finger press if using vinyl, or press with iron, topstitch. Place assembled flap over assembled exterior panel, aligning between side panel seams, over top of pocket. Baste on place. Now we need to insert the female half of the magnetic snap. This one’s a bit trickier! First we need to find the right spot to place it, by marking the male snap reaches on the pocket, then placing our other marks and slits, as above, on the pocket. To insert the snap, we’ll need to reach up from the bottom of the pocket and turn it part way inside out to flatten the prongs. Don’t forget to reinforce the snap with scrap interfacing.

Now attach the bottom (vinyl) panel to the assembled panels. We are matching the top of the bottom to the bottom of the top, hahaha! Super simple, right? Just make sure the same width is being matched up and you’ll be fine. Sew in place and topstitch if desired.

Now it’s time to cut out the sew-in interfacing or fusible fleece. Use the assembled panels to trace your interfacing or fleece and cut each out. You can also cut out the top band C at this step; I only interfaced 2 of my top bands. Baste sew-in interfacing at a 1/4″ seam allowance, or fuse the fleece in place, being careful to avoid the iron on areas with vinyl. You can either leave the area over the vinyl unfused if you’re using fusible fleece, or choose to baste it at a 1/4″ seam allowance. I just left mine unfused and it doesn’t really make a difference as long as you catch the fleece when you’re sewing the bottom at the later step.

To pleat the exterior panels we need to transfer the pleat marks from the pattern piece to the back of our panels. I like to make a small cut in the pattern at the pleat marks, then just use my marker to mark at the correct spot. Because we want our pleats to be mirror images, we’ll need to flip the pattern piece once to create the marks. If you’re looking at the panel, with wrong side facing up, the pattern should face down when you’re transferring pleat marks on the left side, and face up when you’re transferring pleat marks on the right side.

PSA: I love Wonder Clips, BUT, I find pins work best for pleats, especially smaller ones such as these, otherwise I find the fabric shifts too much as you’re trying to sew the pleat in place. With the wrong side up, starting on the left side, bring the outermost pleat mark inward to the pleat mark next to it, matching up pleat mark and pin in place. Then take the next pleat mark and bring it toward the center to the remaining pleat mark on the left side, pin in place. Repeat with right side of panel, bringing pleat marks toward the center of the panel. Repeat with other assembled panel.

Machine baste in place.

Take a top band C that has interfacing and place right sides together on top edge of the assembled pleated panel, matching wide edges, pin or clip in place. You will have a small triangle of excess in each corner because of the pleating, which you can trim off. Stitch in place, press seam allowance toward top band and top stitch seam at 1/8″ seam allowance.

Repeat with remaining assembled pleated panel and interfaced top band. Place all your pieces in a pretty pile and come back tomorrow!