Disclosure: Some links in this post are my affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission on purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. All opinions expressed here are my own. Thanks for your support.

I hope you’re following along with our Canadian Sewing Blog Hop. I’ve gathered some really great discounts to share just in time for Canada Day. Check out the schedule to make sure you don’t miss out on all the fun.

Because the blog hop features work from two Canadian Craftsy Instructors, I asked Craftsy if we could celebrate Canada Day with a discount on their classes. Save 50% on all classes taught by Janelle Mackay and Beverly Johnson, use the special discount links by clicking on their names here, or the pictures with their classes below, no code needed, just follow the links.

Disclosure: Some links in this post are my affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission on purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. All opinions expressed here are my own.

I’ve been keeping a secret from you guys…since about January! Did you join in during the Great Canadian Craftsy Bag Tour? Well, in the planning stages for that, we realized we have so much home grown talent and should devote a whole tour just to that. I thought it would be fitting to time it with Canada Day. So I got together with a few other bloggers and now we have this wonderful tour for all of you.

What to expect

Today kicks off the tour, so check the schedule near the bottom of this post for all the dates and links you need to follow along. We’ll be sewing garments, bags, and even a quilt. Learn about some Canadian pattern designers, shops, and other Canadian sewing talent.

I’ve rounded up some fabulous discounts just for the tour and I hope it will give you a chance to try out some new to you Canadian shops (or revisit some favourites). Please visit my Sales Tab for all the details. Thank you so much to all the great shops who offered discounts for our readers.

I wrote about one of Janelle MacKay’s patterns from the book she co-authored On The Go Bags. Here’s a sneak peek for now, but you’ll have to wait until June 27th to see more. There’s a discount for anything at the publisher site C&T Publishing so you can get the book, either hard copy or ebook at 20% off, plus anything else they carry with code CANADA until July 5, 2016

Thanks to Camelot Fabrics for the fabric for my projects, and contributing a prize. They also let Marsha run wild at their headquarters and fondle all the fabric, or that’s what I would have done anyway. How great is it that we have a Canadian fabric company?!

Of course we can’t forget prizes! In fact, there are so many, they’ve been split up into prize bundles giving you more chances to win. A special thank you to our sponsors who contributed prizes. Prizes up for grabs include: FQ bundle from Flare Fabrics, $25 Emmaline store credit, FQ bundle from Camelot Fabrics, $25 Tangled Blossoms Design store credit, and patterns from these designers you’ll learn more about over the coming days: Carla’s Creations, Thread Riding Hood, On The Cutting Floor, Jalie, StitchArt, Blue Calla, Pollywoggles and Libs Elliott.

My youngest son got invited to a birthday party for a little girl and the first thing I thought of was “YESssss! I get to make a little girl’s purse!” I really try to get my boys into liking bags, and they do like the lunch bags and other bags I make them, but they just aren’t into the “pretty” stuff, so I rejoice when I get an excuse to make a fun, pretty purse. Right away I found out the birthday girl’s favourite colours are yellow and blue. At the same time, I’ve been itching to make one of the Bag of The Month Club bags from this year. They’re all now released and I hadn’t made one yet because I always seem to have more urgent projects (well, as urgent as sewing bags can get, ha!)

The Polaris bag is the March bag from the club, it’s bySara of Sew Sweetness, and the pattern includes an oval and a rectangle bag. I chose to use the oval Polaris as my canvas for the birthday purse. I think it’s a great pattern when you want to be creative and add your own elements. I was inspired by the Cat-Eye Zippered Pouches (Thread Riding Hood) I’d previously made, but couldn’t really construct the bag the same way, so I came up with a different way that should work for most patterns, and the best part is you only need a scrap piece for your center focus fabric.

Start by selecting your focus fabric. It can be relatively small as long as there is about 1/2″ all the way around the area you want to display (the mermaid in my finished bag). Place the full oval pattern piece (both halves taped together) on your work surface, then place a page protector or clear quilting template over top, and line up the focus fabric so it is centered with the center of the pattern piece. Now make an additional 1/2 pattern piece (half an oval in this case) and line up with original pattern piece (on bottom of pile) and center of pattern.

Now you can draw the shape of the curve that best suits your focus fabric. Just draw on the 1/2 pattern piece. Cut out the curved section and check to see if your focus fabric is how you’d like it, flip over to other half of the pattern to make sure it looks good from that side too, which it should if your focus image is fairly symmetrical and centered properly.

Once you have the center curve how you like it, create another full oval. Place the 1/2 pattern piece (with the center curve cut out) over top of the full oval, now you’ll need to continue that curve along to the edge of the oval, on both top and bottom. You can use a French Curve tool, or just freehand if you like to live on the wild side, like me! My piece ended up looking a bit like a “C” with horizontal teardrop cut out.

Cut a mirror image set of both the exterior fabric and the accent fabric, which will act as a faux piping.

Sew one set of exterior and accent pieces right sides together; repeat with remaining set. Turn right side out. Then you’ll need to press each piece, but before you press, roll the accent piece toward the center of the cutout, to reveal a scant amount, this creates the faux-piping look.

Place the 2 assembled overlap pieces over the center fabric and overlap one piece on the top and one piece on the bottom, so they’re intertwined. I did this step on top of the page protector again to make sure I maintained the original shape of the oval.  In order to have a nice topstitch around the center, and seal off any raw edges from your focus scrap, mark where your pieces overlap (pink arrows). Now take your overlap pieces apart again and start a topstich about 1″ inside the overlap point (yellow arrows) and continue to past the overlap mark (you can go all the way if you like, but it won’t be seen on the finished product). Bring them back to your page protector work surface and line up again with center focus fabric. I used some double sided fabric tape to secure my pieces once I was happy with placement. Now we’ll finish the topstitch around the curve, starting at each yellow arrow and continuing along to the end of the curves.

Baste all layers in place along outer seam allowance and continue with bag construction as per pattern instructions.

I really hope that helps! If there are any steps that were confusing, please ask and I’ll try to clarify.

Disclosure: Some links in this post are my affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission on purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. All opinions expressed here are my own.

Welcome to Day 5 of the Caravan Tote Sew Along.  Today we finish the bag and make the matching bonus pouch.  Check out Day 1 to get started and learn about fabric and interfacing selection, and Day 2 to begin cutting and making handles. Day 3 is where we really get started with sewing. Day 4 goes over the different pockets and the lining of the bag. You can purchase the PDF from the Noodlehead shop, and use code HOSAL at checkout to save 20%. Or if you want some help picking your fabric, there’s a kit including the paper pattern and fabric from Craftsy, on sale right now, save 35%.

Make a mark 1 1/2″ down  and centered from the top raw edge of one lining panel. To find center easily, just fold the panel in half and finger press. Use the washer from your magnetic snap as a guide to trace your lines for the prongs. Make small slits for the prongs; I use my seam ripper and go slowly to make those cuts. Insert one half of the snap from the right side of the lining through to the back  and through the washer, and push out the prongs, making them flat. I also like to add a scrap of fleece or extra interfacing between the wrong side of the lining and the washer.

Repeat these steps for the other lining panel and other half of magnetic snap.

Depending on the type of handles you chose for you bag, you will likely add them now. If you chose leather handles, they will be added with rivets later, skip this step. Find center at top of each exterior panel by fold in half and finger pressing at the top, then make a mark at center front and back within the seam allowance. Make a mark 2 1/4″ on each side of center mark. Align inner edge of handle with the 2 1/4″ mark making sure not to twist your handle. Complete for both front and back.
With your exterior right side out, and your lining wrong side out, place the assembled exterior into the assembled lining. Place the front exterior pocket right sides together with the lining side without the slip pocket, this makes the interior slip pocket at the back of the bag.  Pin or clip tops of exterior and lining together. Make sure handles are tucked well inside the bag. I like to start by pinning the side seams together, then centers, and finally the spaces in between. If you didn’t leave a turning gap in your lining, leave one now, at the back of the bag, between the handles.

Sew along the top of the bag (making sure to leave the turning gap if you need to.) Trim any fleece (if you used it) in the seam allowance in the side seams to reduce bulk. Turn the bag right side out through the turning hole. Tuck in raw edges of the turning hole. If you left the turning hole in the lining, sew it shut with a small seam allowance. If you left the hole at the top, press to make the folded edges even with the rest of the top of the bag. Press all along top of bag, I like to use wonder clips for this step too.  Topstitch along top of bag about 1/8-1/4″ from top edge, with a longer stitch length to create smooth even stitches; this closes the turning gap at the top if you had one.

If your handles are already sewn in, you’re done! There are a couple ways to add handles now. You can either add them with rivets, Chicago screws, or decorative stitching. I used rivets for my denim bag with leather handles. I placed my handles in the same spot as in the pattern. I chose to use 2 rivets for each end spaced at 1/2″ from the end and apart. For more info on installing rivets, check out this Noodlehead tutorial.

If you haven’t already, cut and fuse the pouch fabric and interfacing. I added a layer of fleece to my lining, pocket and flap. Just as in the pattern, make pocket and flap by sewing right sides together, leaving top raw edge of flap unsewn, and a turning gap at the top of the pocket. Attach the pocket and flap in the same manner as on the tote, following the spacing as stated in the pattern. Add desired closure to flap and pocket. I like the pouch pocket without a snap.

Mark darts by using the pattern pieces and fabric pen. Pinch together and sew along marked line to create dart. Complete darts for both exterior and lining pieces.

Prepare the zipper by adding the zipper tab. Fold it like a piece of binding and cover the end (oppsite of zipper pull when closed) of the zipper, topstitch in place. At the zipper pull end, bend each side back at 45 degree angle and stitch in place; I use my stiletto tool for this step because it can be tricky to get such little pieces lined up under the presser foot.

Make a “zipper sandwich” with the zipper centered right side down onto right side of exterior, then right side of lining on top that. Sew along top of pouch, through all layers. Note: If you’re less confident with zippers, baste zipper in place first without lining, then sew again to add the lining piece.

Fold exterior and lining back so they’re wrong sides together, and repeat above steps to attach remaining exterior and lining pieces to other half of zipper. Press away from zipper and topstitch.

OPEN your zipper halfway. Match up exterior pieces right sides together, and lining pieces right sides together, making sure to align darts. Push zipper teeth and tab toward lining. Leave a turning hole between the darts in the lining. Sew around the perimeter, starting at one end of the turning gap all the way back to the other end. When you reach the zipper end, go slow and feel for the zipper to make sure you don’t sew through it – you want to have a tiny gap between the seam and the zipper tab.

Trim the seam allowance except at the turning gap. Notch the curves, then turn pouch right side out. Tuck in raw edges at turning gap and sew shut with a small seam allowance. Give it a final press and you’re finished!

I’d love to see your progress and especially your completed projects! Tag me and use #CaravanToteSAL on Instagram.

Feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions, or suggestions. Do you have any tips? Let us know!

To enter to win the Noodlehead patterns, submit a photo of your completed bag by July 3, either by uploading it on my contact page, or using #CaravanToteSAL on Instagram by July 3, 2016.

Disclosure: Some links in this post are my affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission on purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. All opinions expressed here are my own.

Welcome to Day 4 of the Caravan Tote Sew Along.  Today we’ll make both the Needle Pocket and the Interior Slip Pocket, plus create the lining of the bag.  Check out Day 1 to get started and learn about fabric and interfacing selection, and Day 2 to begin cutting and making handles. Day 3 is where we really get started with sewing. You can purchase the PDF from the Noodlehead shop, and use code HOSAL at checkout to save 20%. Or if you want some help picking your fabric, there’s a kit including the paper pattern and fabric from Craftsy, on sale right now, save 35%.

The pattern suggests adding a bias along the top of the needle pocket; this is a nice decorative element. If you don’t want to fuss with binding, you can make the pocket by pressing in half right sides together, sewing along long raw edge and then turning right sides out. The binding really is a quick way to add an accent fabric and since it’s along a straight line doesn’t need to be on the bias, so it’s easy to add. Start by creating your binding. If you have a binding maker, now’s the time to use it. Otherwise, just press in half lengthwise, open up, and then bring in raw edges to center crease and fold again, matching folded edges.

To attach the binding, open up again and match one long raw edge to the back of the top of your needle pocket and sew along the top crease. Now flip over your pocket and bring the binding to the front, folding it in place, then sew binding in place about 1/8″ from the bottom folded edge of the binding.

Measure and mark a horizontal line 6 1/2″ down from the top of the Zippered Pocket Lining, pin the pocket in place and sew along bottom edge. You’ll also need to baste the sides of the pocket in place. I like to do this all at once, by starting at one side with a long stitch length, going down the side, then reducing my stitch length to sew across the bottom of the pocket, and increasing to basting stitch for the last side. Now you’ll need to divide the pocket. Start at 3 1/2″ from either side and mark vertical lines. I use my Hera marker and quilting ruler here, so I’m sure not to leave any visible lines. The pattern suggested 3/4″ apart for needles. I won’t be using my bag for needles, so I marked my lines a bit wider. You can use whichever items you will be putting in the pockets to help guide how wide you need them.

Place Exterior Front right side up on top of Zippered Pocket Lining right side up and baste together along all sides. If you want to add a ribbon or loop to your bag, add that now and baste in place too. Set aside for now.

Place both Interior Slip Pocket pieces right sides together and sew in along top and bottom edge. Turn right side out, and press. I rolled my pocket slightly before pressing to reveal the colourful lining of my pocket at the top, then pressed in place; you can try this too, it’s a quick way to add an accent. Now topstitch along top edge and add other rows of topstitchingas desired. If you want to add grommets like in the pattern, make your second row of stitching 1″ below the first and install your grommets according to manufacturer’s instructions 1 1/2″ from each side between the rows of stitching.

Measure and mark a horizontal line 3 1/2″ from the top of the Lining Center Panel and place slip pocket, with the top of the pocket along that line and then just as you sewed the needle pocket, sew bottom and baste sides of pocket in place.

To attach the lining sides, I like to do them at the same time. Pin or clip the sides on each side of the center, sew, then open and press with seams toward sides; topstitch on sides. Once your lining panel is assembled, you can now fuse the optional layer of fusible fleece you cut for the lining in Day 2 (if you chose to add it) to each lining piece. You can cut the fleece 1/2″ smaller to keep it out of the seam allowance to help reduce bulk.

Take both Exterior Front and Back pieces and place right sides together, matching the Contrast Tops at the sides. Pin or clip along both sides and bottom, then sew together. Repeat for lining panels, being sure that your pocket is open at the top – ask me how I know to be careful about that one! For the lining, the pattern states to leave a turning gap along the side. I like to do that in the top
of the bag, but if you’d rather do that here, then feel free. A simple way to do that is by switching your stitch to a basting length instead of lifting your needle off to leave the hole; either way you’ll need to backstitch at start and stop of the turning hole.

To give the bag shape and depth, we’ll box the corners. Start by marking a 2 1/2″ square on each bottom corner and cutting them out. Press bottom and side seams open.

Now pinch the corner, matching the side seam with the bottom seam. Pin or clip and sew in place. I like to add another close row of stitching inside the seam allowance for added durability.

Repeat these steps to box the corners of the lining.

That’s it for today! Next time we’ll add the magnetic snap and handles, and finish the bag. We’ll also complete the sew along with the companion pouch.

I’d love to see your progress! Tag me and use #CaravanToteSAL on Instagram.

Feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions, or suggestions. Do you have any tips? Let us know!

To enter to win the Noodlehead patterns, submit a photo of your completed bag by July 3, either by uploading it on my contact page, or using #CaravanToteSAL on Instagram by July 3, 2016.

Disclosure: Some links in this post are my affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission on purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. All opinions expressed here are my own.

Welcome to Day 3 of the Caravan Tote Sew Along.  Today we’ll construct the exterior of the bag.  Check out Day 1 to get started and learn about fabric and interfacing selection, and Day 2 to begin cutting and making handles. You can purchase the PDF from the Noodlehead shop, and use code HOSAL at checkout to save 20%. I also noticed that you can get a kit including the paper pattern and fabric from Craftsy, on sale right now, save 35%.

To prepare the zipper, we’ll add zipper tabs on each end. The zipper tabs make it easier to sew in at the seams. If you are using a premade zipper, you may need to trim the ends of the zipper so they don’t extend more than 1/2″ past the metal stop and start of teeth. Create a zipper sandwich with lining tab right side facing up, then zipper facing up and finally exterior tab right side down. Sew in place with your zipper foot (being careful to avoid the metal zipper end).

Then move tabs out, away from zipper so they are wrong sides together. Press and topstitch. Repeat with other zipper end and trim tabs so they match the zipper width, if you need to.

To create the large front zippered pocket, start by taking the Contrast Top Exterior and align the raw edge with the zipper (teeth down). Note: If your Contrast Top is directional, you will be matching the bottom raw edge with your zipper – in my picture, the purple diagonal lines are the top of my bag. I like to use Wonder Clips here and because I’m using a wider zipper, I don’t need to use a zipper foot. You may choose to use a fusible tape to help secure the zipper while you sew.

Baste in place and then place Contrast Top Lining right side down, aligning it with the Contrast Top Exterior; stitch in place.  Fold back away from zipper, joining both Contrast Tops wrong sides together and press. Trim excess width from zipper tabs.

Now repeat those steps with other side of zipper, Main Exterior, and Lining Exterior. You will have the right side of the Contrast Top Exterior touching the right side of the Main Exterior while you baste the zipper in place.

Once the Exterior and Lining pieces for Main and Contrast Top are all sewn to the zipper, press in place and topstitch. Trim completed Front to a height of 17 1/2″. Mark a horizontal line 3″ up from bottom edge of Exterior front and sew through all layers.

Depending on the fabric and/or interfacing you chose, you may wish to add a layer of interfacing or fleece to your pocket and flap. If you’re using a metal snap I recommend reinforcing your fabric. For mine, I will be using the Half Moon Magnetic Edge Clasp so I need to add the female magnetic snap half before I finish sewing my pocket. If you’re using a traditional magnetic snap (or 2) you’ll need to add those before you sew the flap together.
I cut a scrap piece of fusible fleece a tad smaller than the flap and fused to the wrong side of my Exterior Pocket Flap. Place Pocket Flap pieces right sides together and sew sides and curved edges only, leaving straight edge unsewn. Clip curved edges within seam allowance, being careful not to cut into stitching. Turn right side out, press, and topstitch. Feel free to add another line or 2 of topstitching here.

As with the pocket flap, you may wish to add extra interfacing or scraps of fleece for reinforcement for the closure of your pocket. Place pocket pieces right sides together. Stitch together starting at the top straight edge, going around back to the top straight edge, but leave a turning hole about 4″ at the top straight edge of the pocket. Clip curved edges and corners within seam allowance and turn right side out. Use a turning tool to create nice corners and smooth curves. Tuck in fabric at turning hole, press in place. If you need to add a magnetic snap, you can do that now. Topstitch along straight edge, with additional rows as desired.

Measure 2 1/4″ down from zipper and place pocket top along that line. Center pocket (mine was 4 1/4″ from each side), pin in place and sew through all layers, adding a diagonal line for reinforcement at each top corner.

To attach the flap, first place pocket Exterior side down, with raw edge closest to pocket, 1″ above top of pocket, then sew along raw edge with a 1/8″ seam allowance. Then fold down and press in place, then stitch along top folded edge with a 1/4″ seam allowance, hiding the raw edge.

Place remaining Contrast Top down against remaining Exterior Main, right sides together (the contrast top should be upside down if it’s directional). Stitch together, press seam open and topstitch along Contrast Top.

That’s it for now! The next day we will create the needle pocket for the zippered pocket lining, and create lining of bag, including slip pocket.

I’d love to see your progress! Tag me and use #CaravanToteSAL on Instagram.

Feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions, or suggestions. Do you have any zipper tips? Favorite closures for flaps? Let us know!

To enter to win the Noodlehead patterns, submit a photo of your completed bag by July 3, either by uploading it on my contact page, or using #CaravanToteSAL on Instagram by July 3, 2016.

Disclosure: Some links in this post are my affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission on purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. All opinions expressed here are my own.

Welcome to Day 2 of the Caravan Tote Sew Along.  Today we’ll cut all our materials and prepare the handles.  Check out Day 1 to get started and learn about fabric and interfacing selection. You can purchase the PDF from the Noodlehead shop, and use code HOSAL at checkout to save 20%. I also noticed that you can get a kit including the paper pattern and fabric from Craftsy, on sale right now, save 35%.

By now you should have your pattern and materials selected. If you’re using a PDF, you’ll need to print at least the flap and pocket pieces, plus the pouch if you’re making that too. I prefer to use my quilting ruler and rotary cutter to cut all my rectangles, but if you don’t like to measure those pieces and prefer pattern pieces, then print those out as well. You might find it easiest to print out the instructions, or if you’re like me, you just read from your tablet or phone. After you’ve printed what you need, cut them out and now it’s time to get started. I’ll be honest: cutting is my least favourite part of the whole bag making process. I find it tedious and when I’m so excited to get sewing a bag, it slows me right down.
one way I’ve found to speed up the process is to cut my interfacing first, then I can fuse it to my fabric; this allows me to skip the extra step of tracing onto my fabric.

I found if you put the straight edges of the flap and pocket pieces together, you can reduce waste. You can’t do this with your fabric if it’s directional though.  Another note about cutting your fabrics: the measurements are listed as HEIGHT by WIDTH.

Even though my exterior fabric is heavier than a quilting cotton weight, I’m going with a layer of Craft Fuse on top of my fusible woven interfacing. I just prefer the extra body. I’ll also be using a layer of fusible fleece, and I’ll chat about that shortly.

Not all pieces in the pattern are interfaced, so you can use already cut pieces as whole pattern pieces instead of cutting on the fold. I like to use markers to trace. I find they write easily and its in the seam allowance, so won’t be seen.

There are a lot of rectangles in this pattern and it can be hard to keep things straight. I like to write directly on the back of my pieces with a fabric pen.

Go ahead and cut all your fabric and interfacing. Fuse the woven interfacing to the exterior pieces plus the zippered pocket lining, pocket and flap, and handles if you haven’t already. If you’re using the medium weight interfacing, you can fuse those pieces over top of the woven interfacing on the contrast top and main exterior. If you want even more body to the bag, you can add a layer of medium weight interfacing and/or fusible fleece (or batting) to the lining. Cut 2 pieces of fleece the same size as the large lining piece – we’ll fuse these pieces once the lining has been constructed a bit more, so just set them aside for now. If you’re also making the pouch, you can add a layer of fleece to the lining to be fused later.

There are so many ways to make your handles unique. You can follow the directions in the pattern to have a single fabric handle, use cotton webbing (I like the natural cotton webbing for a rustic look), or how about the leather handles from the Noodlehead shop? Another way to make your handles is by using two different fabrics; here’s how:

If you decide to add fleece to your strap, cut the fleece from your ends before you sew them in, this keeps extra bulk out of the seam allowance. To topstitch the strap, and anything else, I like to use a longer stitch length. You may also choose to add extra parallel rows of topstitching.

Now set aside all your pretties and check back again in a few days 🙂

I’d love to see your progress! Tag me and use #CaravanToteSAL on Instagram. 

Feel free to leave a comment if you have any questions, or suggestions. Do you have any tips to cut down on prep time? Favorite ways to make handles? Let us know!

To enter to win the Noodlehead patterns, submit a photo of your completed bag by July 3, either by uploading it on my contact page, or using #CaravanToteSAL on Instagram by July 3, 2016.

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links. I received this Craftsy kit in exchange for an honest review. Some links in this post are my affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission on purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. All opinions expressed here are my own.

I was bursting with excitement when I received an email from Craftsy that they wanted to send me a kit to review. I chose this Amy Butler Reversible Sunday Sling in Violette. The choice was for a few reasons: Number 1 being this gorgeous fabric. I actually used some other Violette prints in my Sew Sturdy Hanging Travel Organizer, but the 2 prints in this kit are quite different than the others I’ve used. Another reason I chose this kit is because I’ve never used an Amy Butler bag pattern and was curious to try it. When I interviewed Alicia of Swoon for One Thimble, she told me she started sewing bags with Amy Butler patterns, and since I consider Alicia’s patterns to be top notch, I had to see her inspiration for myself.

The kit includes 1 7/8 yard of Meadow Blooms in Midnight and 1 3/8 yard of Field Poppy in Sky, both 100% cotton, quilting weight from Amy Butler’s Violette collection for Free Spirit Fabrics. The kit also comes with the paper pattern to make the Reversible Sunday Sling, which comes in 2 sizes.

I made the small sling bag, which is still very large, and I had plenty of fabric left over. You’ll also need matching thread, fusible woven interfacing (like Pellon Shapeflex 101), fusible fleece, and  a small amount of Peltex to complete the bag.

The fabric is so beautiful and bright. I’m a fan of Free Spirit Fabrics. Not only do they have some really great designers (Joel Dewberry, Tula Pink, Anna Maria Horner), but the quality of the fabric is wonderful too. I don’t love all of Amy Butler’s collections (don’t hate me!) but Violette is my style for sure. That being said, my personal style tends to be more of combining a busy print with a solid or a low volume, so mixing these 2 busy florals isn’t typically what I’d do. I think it really works for this style of bag though, and overall has a fun effect.

The pattern was pretty easy to follow, but I did have some hairy moments. Some of the pattern pieces are used multiple times, but you have to fold at dashed and/or solid lines for the right piece, so I found myself triple and quadruple checking before cutting. I appreciated that the pattern included a complete glossary of terms, so if you’re self-taught like me it’s nice to have. Also included is a complete cutting layout. This is a bonus for me, because I find cutting the longest step of every bag, and most of that time is spent thinking out the best, most efficient way to cut the fabric. I should also mention that every piece has a pattern, so you don’t have to measure anything out. The pattern consists of mainly text with sparse diagrams. I think more diagrams would make it a bit more beginner friendly, but the instructions are clear enough that a beginner should be able to make this bag, not as a first project though.

The bag has 2 small side pockets on the main exterior and 2 large divided pockets on the lining. It’s completely reversible, so you can decide which print you want to show off. The handles are tied in a knot for a feminine, casual style. I think this bag makes the perfect beach bag, or take it along to the farmer’s market.

I think the sale price for this kit is fantastic, and is about the cost of the fabric alone, so for me it’s worth it – almost like getting the pattern for free. I think if you like the fabric, and you like the style/pattern of the bag, it’s definitely for you. Even if you don’t use these fabrics in this bag, the value is still there.

Have you checked out some of the other bag kits available? There is a wide array. Here are some that have caught my eye:

I just wanted to make a really quick post today to share this awesome tutorial and a way to help out with the wildfires in Alberta. I’m in BC, the next province over, and I’m so sad to hear about all the devastation. I’ve been looking for a meaningful way to help, and I think this idea is just perfect.

Stacey from Slo Studio created this easy tutorial for a maple leaf block. You can make one (or more) maple leaf block and send it in to be joined with other blocks and made into quilts for those affected by the fires. Click the link for all the details, including tutorial and address to send to.

I’ve made two so far. They’re fun and quick. You don’t need to be a quilter (or Canadian) to make one, just be able to cut, and sew accurately (or close enough). There are a few requirements for the blocks, including size and colours, but there’s still a ton of freedom for creativity and uniqueness, so go on and make a few!

Disclosure: Some links in this post are my affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission on purchases made through these links at no additional cost to you. All opinions expressed here are my own.

Welcome to Day 1 of the Caravan Tote Sew Along. To get started, you’ll need the pattern. You can purchase the PDF from the Noodlehead shop, and use code HOSAL at checkout to save 20%. I also noticed that you can get a kit including the paper pattern and fabric from Craftsy, on sale right now, save 35%.

Today I’ll focus on choosing fabrics and pattern options. If you create your bag exactly per pattern with exact fabric and interfacing suggestions, plus all the options, you will be making a perfect knitting project bag. The pattern includes knitting needle pockets and yarn guides. There is one large zippered pocket at the front (containing the needle pockets) plus a front flap pocket. Inside the main compartment of the bag is a slip pocket with 2 yarn guides. With the suggested interfacing, the bag will be sturdy, yet slouchy. Of course, if you don’t knit, you can use those pockets for pens. The yarn guides add a style feature as well.

The pattern suggests using a heavier weight fabric as the exterior fabric. Examples include: Essex linen, denim, twill, and canvas. If you choose to use quilting cotton, I suggest adding a layer of woven interfacing, for increased stability. The fun part about this fabric is that you can mix and match several different fabrics and prints. I’ve created this labelled image to help you pick fabrics for your bag. I find sometimes it’s hard to visualize bag parts before I sew one up the first time. Hopefully this helps you narrow down your options.

 You’ll notice I used a couple different fabrics for my lining – you can too! You can even use fat quarters for some of the pieces. I also used 2 different fabrics for my handles. I will go over a few different handle options on Day 2, but the fabric requirement doesn’t change much. You can also use leather handles, like the ones offered in the Noodlehead shop. I can review a couple different ways to attach those as well.

As for pattern options, you can omit the front flap pocket if you want to make a more simple tote and/or feature a large print on your bag. You can also use that front space for a fun quilt block, like I did with one of mine, using the Hazel Hedgehog block.

Are you going to be making the companion pouch as well? Have fun with it and match or alternate your fabric choices for the pouch.

Your interfacing choices will determine the stability and body of your bag. If you want the feel of a traditional tote, use the suggested list. I really like Pellon Shapeflex 101 as the woven interfacing. It fuses so well and adds stability without bulk. I also like Paccana‘s fusible woven as a great substitute; the only difference I see is width and price. Pellon Craft Fuse 808 or Decor Bond 809 is an inexpensive way to add body to your fabric. I do find it hard to fuse and it can crease, so adding it the lining is a good option. If you’d like your bag to stand up on its own, I suggest an additional layer of fusible fleece on the lining.

For the zippers, you can use either metal or poly coil. The metal zipper really gives the bag a classic feel, and the zipper tabs in the pattern make it a bit less scary to sew in.

Go ahead and download your pattern and order your fabric or sort through your stash. We’ll meet back here in a few days to get started with cutting and fusing all the interfacing and making the handles. Here’s what I’ll be using for my bag:
Art Gallery denim and Paperie quilting cotton, plus some solids for the lining and accents.

Do you have yours picked out yet? I can’t wait to see them all. Let me know if you have any questions, either leave me a comment, or send me a message through my contact page.

To enter to win the Noodlehead patterns, submit a photo of your completed bag by July 3, either by uploading it on my contact page, or using #CaravanToteSAL on Instagram by July 3, 2016.