Welcome, and thanks for joining me as we make this fun and fabulous bag! I hope you’ll find this sewalong motivating, informative, and enjoyable! Here’s what you can expect over the next few days:

• Day 1  (that’s today!)- Fabric, interfacing, and hardware selection and gathering. Printing of pattern, and cutting and fusing fabric and interfacing.
• Day 2 – We begin sewing the bag.
• Day 3  – Final assembly and completion of bag

Let’s get started! If you haven’t already, go grab a copy of the PDF, and use code OKAPI10 to save 10% (on any pattern, any time!)

You’ll also need to gather your supplies. For my bag, I’m using vinyl for the bottom and shoulder straps, and cotton for the rest. I interfaced my lining and pockets with Pellon Shapeflex 101 (fusible cotton woven) and used fusible fleece for my exterior. I wouldn’t recommend foam interfacing for this bag, since we’re pleating the panels. The pattern suggests using a sew-in batting or duck canvas, which will work too of course. I found some amazing oversized rings at Emmaline Bags and I’m using 1″ O-rings instead of 5/8″ D-rings. If you can’t find hardware to match the requirements exactly, that’s ok, I’ll address that when we get to cutting.

You’ll want to make you print at 100% and measure the test square to make sure it’s an accurate printing. I usually just print the pattern pieces out and read the instructions from my tablet; this way I save big on printer ink. You may want to print the pattern pieces that are cut on fold twice, or trace those pieces onto another piece of paper, cut, and tape together at the fold line. I find this helps me get more accurate cuts and lets me visualize my fabric placement a bit better than cutting or tracing on the fold.

Before I get started cutting, I organize my fabrics and pattern pieces and make a small chart for myself. I’m using 3 different exterior fabrics, so the chart helps me keep everything in order and I can make sure all my pieces are cut by checking them off as I go. Here’s mine:

You’ll note the * next to D ring tab in my chart, that’s because I’m lazy so I try to find ways to make bag making faster and easier, so I actually just cut a 6″ x 3″ piece and sew to make the tab as directed, then cut in half to end up with 2 tabs the same size as in the pattern. You may also notice I interface more than called for in the pattern, and that’s just my personal preference; so feel free to interface the lining, as I do, or leave it off, as the pattern does, either way it won’t make a difference in assembly of the bag. For example, I cut the interfacing for the slip pocket the same size as the pocket, instead of half. I just like a bit more body to my bags, so I tend to add interfacing even where patterns don’t necessarily call for it. 

If you couldn’t find the same hardware as listed, you may need to adjust your straps. For example if you only have a 1″ slide and swivel clips, you may need to make your strap at a finished width of 1″ instead of 1.5″ or for your D ring tabs, you’ll need to make sure your finished width will fit in the D rings you have. To make a strap or tab, cut it 4x times wide as desired finished width.

You’ll need to figure out what length you want for your adjustable strap. A good way to estimate is to take your tape measure and drape across your shoulder as if it were a strap for a cross body bag, then measure how long the strap would need to be: I cut mine at 55″, keeping in mind that a few inches will be folded up to attach hardware.

Now that you’ve got your cutting list sorted out, go ahead and start cutting. I like to start with my Sf101, and fuse that to the pieces that will be interfaced with it, then cutting the fabric out around the interfacing: refer to my laziness above, this allows me to trace my pieces a few less times.

You might be wondering why we aren’t cutting a lot of the sew-in or fleece at this point, but it’s coming tomorrow, so don’t worry, we haven’t forgotten it yet.

Once you’ve cut all your fabric and interfacing, if you haven’t fused as you cut, you’ll need to do that now. Set all your pieces in a pretty pile and come back tomorrow to start sewing!

I’d love to see your progress! Use #HappyOkapiBlueCallaSAL on Instagram to share.

This post contains affiliate links

Save big for the Blue Calla Iris Sewalong! Now through November 9, the Iris Convertible Shoulder Bag is 50% off, to make it easy for you to join in the sewalong and win prizes!

http://bluecallapatterns.com/products/the-iris-convertible-shoulder-bag-pdf-sewing-pattern

Save up to 50% on Craftsy Classes right now. The new Building Better Bags by Sara Lawson is on sale too! http://www.shareasale.com/m-pr.cfm?merchantID=29190&userID=1134409&productID=599176257

Sale of the week: 15% off notions with the code notion15! Check out all the little things in store!

http://funkymonkeyfabrics.com/

Fabric Spark has some really wonderful fabric on sale in their sale section right now! Fill your cart and get free shipping with orders over $125!

http://fabricspark.com/collections/promotions

There are 2 different discount codes over at Purse Palooza for Mrs. H patterns right now. You’ll have to read this post and this post to find the codes; I can’t do all the work for you 😉

Since my last free pattern roundup, I’ve come across many more excellent ones, so I decided it was time for another roundup! Here is an assortment of free patterns I’ve found. I haven’t made all of them, but many of the designers featured here are my favourites. Free patterns are a great way to try out a designer before you purchase one of their patterns. Many designers have their own style of instructions, pattern layout and techniques, so try some out and see what your preferences are. Free patterns are also great for when you’re starting out; they give you a chance to get your feet wet before you invest a lot in the PDF world. Also, if you haven’t already, make sure to go grab a copy of Blue Calla’s free Gerbera Wristlet PDF pattern, right  here on Happy Okapi!

It’s no secret I’m a huge fan of Swoon Sewing Patterns. Whether you’re new to making bags, or you’re experienced, this pattern will delight you! It’s a great way to try out different interfacing, and if  hardware intimidates you, then you can skip the magnetic snap. You’re even welcome to sell bags made with this pattern!

I love that this pattern gives you so many options! You can make it very beginner friendly, by omitting the piping, and using cottons and a magnetic snap, or you can challenge yourself by using vinyl, adding piping and using a turn lock. How about a quilted flap to mix things up? I think this would be a great quick gift to make for a friend’s birthday, or just as a pick-me-up when you’re looking for something fun to sew.

Anna at Noodlehead always has such elegant, designs, and this Trail Tote is no exception. It comes in 2 different sizes and has an adjustable strap and exterior zippered pocket. You can whip one of these up on a whim! Make your own piping for an extra special touch.

Thread Riding Hood is a Canadian blogger with lots of great patterns and tutorials. The Time Warp Tote is a pattern she worked on for Cloud 9 Fabrics, and really looks like a fun sew. The pattern format is not her typical style, and actually doesn’t include any pattern pieces to print out, so if you’re out of ink, but desperate to sew up a bag (don’t tell me you’ve never been there, lol!) this project can still work for you. I also like that it uses a different weight of fabric than quilting cotton, so we can try out some other fabrics in our stash that have been feeling neglected.

What cute little bag! It’s packed with features too! You get to try out  installing a turn lock, adding piping to a bag, elastic pockets, overlays, and darts. I like the idea of pairing the main print with a solid like Sara did with her sample bag. I bet it would look great with Essex Linen and a fun floral.

This is a simple versatile pattern that can be made exactly as described in the pattern, or easily changed to suit your style or needs. I personally love large casual bags like this, especially with tons of pockets inside so I have some semblance of organization inside the bag. Check out the tester photos for some ideas on how you can customize your own. This would also make a great bag for a print you just can’t get enough of and are looking for a project to show it off.

Do you have some bamboo handles you’ve been itching to put to use? Here is a super quick and easy tutorial from Janelle at Emmaline for just that! I really love the simple construction method in the tutorial. My thrift store has a craft section and I always see handles like this there. You can really change the look of this bag depending on the fabric you use – dress it up or down. I think it would make an adorable bag for a girls’ night out!

Now the only question is: which one to make first? I hope you’ve enjoyed this roundup. Follow me on Pinterest, for more tutorials, patterns and techniques.

Introducing the Primrose Satchel, the newest pattern from Blue Calla. I had a chance to test out this pattern and I’m thrilled with it! Make sure to read through to the bottom for discount details!

There are so many features packed into this bag! It has an adjustable strap, making it able to be worn cross body or carried on the shoulder. The back has an exterior zippered pocket.

The pattern calls for a slip pocket inside the main compartment.

I love bags with flaps, because we can use a feature fabric and really showcase it. I used a directional fabric, and used the same focus for my interior and exterior fabric, so I just flipped my pattern piece to make sure my print went in the right direction on the inside. Like many of the Blue Calla patterns, this bag also features pleats, and I think they add such a nice touch to the bag.

The pattern calls for a turn lock, and you can even get a hardware kit for the Primrose Satchel from my favourite Hardware supplier: Emmaline Bags! I had a chance to use the new Half Moon Magnetic Edge Clasp from Emmaline, and I’m in love! It’s simple to install, but has a big impact beyond a simple magnetic snap.

This pattern is a PDF that you print yourself. I love PDF patterns because I don’t have to worry about messing up the original pattern because I can always print it again. I like to read instructions on my tablet while I’m sewing, so I only print the pattern pieces. The instructions consist of ample full colour photos; with a layout of 2 columns per page. This is one of the easiest bags I’ve made in a while, and I think it would be great for a confident beginner. I love the versatility with the flap and the closure options, and you can add piping too, depending on which closure method you choose. The hardest part of this pattern is placing the zippered pocket at the back of the bag, pay careful attention not to place it too high, or you will have a difficult time topstitching at your final step. If zippers scare you, leave it off, the bag will still be really nice without it, and you can try on your next one.  I really like the method of closing this bag, leaving no seam to hand stitch (my sewing pet peeve). I recommend this pattern for anyone looking for a quick, easy sew with satisfying results.

• The gorgeous metallic X’s are part of the Cotton + Steel basics from Fabric Spark.
• For the gusset, strap and top bands, I used Yarn Dyed Essex Linen, also from Fabric Spark
• The flap and lining are part of the Honeymoon collection by Sarah Watts, I got mine from the Fat Quarter Shop using my gift certificate I won as part of my Bag of the Month Club prize
• The Half Moon Magnetic Edge Clasp is an exclusive item from Emmaline Bags
• For interfacing, I used Pellon Craft Fuse on my exterior and lining; however, for my next Primrose, I will use Pellon Shapeflex 101 for the exterior and stick with craft fuse for the lining for nicer pleats and firm body.
• For the flap, I used one layer of Pellon Flex Foam, available at Funky Monkey Fabrics

This beautiful Primrose featuring Anna Maria Horner’s Loominous collection is made by Kristy of Rock Baby Scissors

This stunner, using Alison Glass’ Ex Libris, was made by Sheri of Lil’ Munkee Designs

You can get the pattern at the Blue Calla site. As always, you can use promo code OKAPI10 to save 10% on any Blue Calla pattern, even sale priced patterns!

UPDATE: Unfortunately, the Primrose Satchel pattern has been retired. The Lilac Mini Messenger will achieve a similar look (minus the pleating) and it’s free! Click here to download the pattern.

I’m really enjoying seeing all the completed Companion Carpet Bags from everyone! There is still some time to join in and win a prize. Head on over to the Handmade by Mrs. H blog for all the details and sewalong.

Now it’s time to announce my next sewalong! Celine at Blue Calla has some really fresh and original designs, and I’m happy to share the news that my next sewalong will be one of her patterns: the Iris Convertible Bag!

Iris is a medium-large sized bag that can be worn as a shoulder bag, or as a cross-body bag. The bag is loaded with pockets and has a few different options to really customize for your needs. You can also choose different fabric types for parts of this bag, like a vinyl bottom for example.

Head on over to BlueCallaPatterns.com to pick up your PDF copy of Iris, which has been marked down to 50% off right now for a special sewalong price! Don’t forget to use discount code OKAPI10 to save an additional 10%, and you can use that code on any of the patterns while you’re there. Gather all your supplies and join me back here on October 9 for a weekend of sewing. You’ll have plenty of time to finish to be eligible to be entered for the fantastic prize. If you need some help getting supplies, check out my Canadian Sewing Links tab for some great resources.

Enter your completed bag for a chance to win 2 patterns of your choice from Blue Calla and a $25 Gift Certificate to Funky Monkey Fabrics! To enter, post a picture of your completed bag on Instagram with #HappyOkapiBlueCallaSAL
or you can send me a picture of your bag through my contact page. You’ll have until November 8 to complete your bag and enter it. The winner will be randomly selected. Be sure to follow my facebook page for updates.

• Day 1  – Fabric, interfacing, and hardware selection and gathering. Printing of pattern, and cutting and fusing fabric and interfacing.
• Day 2 – We begin sewing the bag.
• Day 3  – Final assembly and completion of bag

Well, it’s that time of year again! You know, where we all do a mad scramble to get everything ready for the first day of school, and avoid malls and stationery stores like the plague because it’s far too crowded, or is that just me? My oldest starts back at school tomorrow and I’m excited, but also not looking forward to the mayhem that happens for most of September while we try to settle into a new routine.

I’ve been planning on making my oldest son a custom backpack for a while and was so pleased when I saw Erin from Diedelbug had come out with a tutorial to expand her Tiny Explorer backpack pattern to a Not-So-Tiny Explorer. The Tiny Explorer was a tad too small and the Back to Campus Backpack was a tad too big, so this tutorial was perfect; it adds 3″ to the Tiny Explorer, making it tall enough to carry a folder. The tutorial also explains how to create a cargo pocket on the front. **UPDATE: Unfortunately, it appears the tutorial is no longer available. I will keep an eye out and update if it reappears.

I let my son pick everything, right down to the zipper colours and webbing I used. For the exterior, he chose this Marvel licensed print from Funky Monkey Fabrics. I liked working with it because it’s not really directional, so I didn’t have to think too hard for the cargo pocket.

I’m not going to lie, this was not a quick sew, but that probably doesn’t come as a surprise. It’s also not cheaper than buying one; but the quality is superior to the cheap ones too. I made it with Pellon Flex Foam, and was advised I should increase the zipper panel width by 1/2″ so that I could use a 1″ seam allowance there instead because of the foam – thanks sewing friends, that was great advice! 

I used mesh in the outer elasticized side pockets, to make it seem more professional. Just perfect for a water bottle! I’m so glad I didn’t skip the piping because it really does add that extra special touch.

The lining is super fun and since I prefer smaller scale for lining, I’m glad my son chose it. I convinced him to select this Mixology – Woven in black as the accent, for the pocket linings and straps. Both the Marvel (lining) and the Mixology (accent) are Camelot fabrics, available from Sitka Fabrics. I also used the tip from the Swoon Blog to help combat saggy linings when you do a drop in lining; it was my first time using that technique, and I’ll definitely incorporate it into all my drop-in lining bags from now on. You can find that tutorial here. 

The Tiny Explorer Backpack pattern by Diedelbug is a PDF pattern. I really liked the layout of the pattern. There are 24 full colour pictures to go along with the instructions. I appreciated the rectangle dimensions in addition to the pattern pieces, as I prefer to use my quilting ruler and rotary cutter to cut those, and it’s nice that the rectangles are included for others who prefer it that way.  I found the directions easy to understand; however, I am familiar with this style of what is called a “drop-in lining.” There was a lot of what I call “fussy work,” especially since I chose to add the cargo pocket from the tutorial add-on. The work is definitely worth it, but may deter a true beginner . I recommend this pattern if you’re looking for a kids’ backpack. The add-on tutorial was tricky to follow in a few places during the cargo pocket steps, but overall I really appreciated having that free extra option.

• Exterior – Marvel licensed print from Funky Monkey Fabrics. 
• Lining – Marvel licensed Camelot print from Sitka Fabrics
• Accent fabric – Mixology Woven by Camelot from Sitka Fabrics
• Piping available from Funky Monkey Fabrics and Sitka Fabrics
• Webbing, zipper supplies and mesh from Paccana; webbing and zippers available at Funky Monkey Fabrics too
• I interfaced my lining with Pellon Shape Flex 101 from Amazon.ca
• For the foam interfacing, I used Pellon Flex Foam 77, available from Funky Monkey Fabrics

The Companion Carpet Bag Sew Along over on Mrs H’s blog is well underway. If you haven’t checked it out yet, head on over and see where we’re at, and the awesome prizes up for grabs! I promised a quick piping tutorial, so here it is. I don’t want to reinvent the wheel, so I’m including some really great piping tutorials as well. For the purposes of the Carpet Bag, you only need one small piece, so I’ll show you that here. The tutorials I’m linking to show you how to make proper piping from bias binding (and how to make that too), which can be used to pipe a whole bag, or a larger, curved area.

If you only need a small piece for a straight edge, you don’t need to cut on the bias, which can save you some fabric. To start, you’ll need cording; I like 5/32″ cording, or even smaller. You’ll also need a zipper foot or a piping foot. Wonder tape will help, but isn’t necessary.

1. Cut a strip of fabric the length you’ll need by 1.5″, plus a matching length of cording
2. Place a strip of wonder tape along wrong side of one long edge
3. Place cording along wrong side, in centre of strip
4. Fold in half, matching long edges, and with cording in between, pin or clip
5. Using zipper foot, baste cording in place, snug, but not too tight.

Alicia from Swoon made a very thorough and great tutorial here. 

Crazy Little Projects has a quick and easy to understand tutorial here. 

You know what I love? Fabric, friends, and coffee (plus my kids and all that good stuff, of course). So when my sewing friend Kelsey, a volunteer for Ryan’s Case for Smiles, suggested we meet up for coffee to discuss this blog post, I thought it was a great idea. Kelsey shared with me her favourite quick method of making a pillowcase, and she talked about her experience with Ryan’s Case for Smiles, formerly Conkerr Cancer. She told me about the heartfelt letters she receives, thanking the organization for the cheerful pillowcase that really made a difference. She also told me about the trips her and her mother took to the hospital, bringing fabric and machines along, and allowing the kids choose their own pillowcases to make with them. I want to help this great cause, so I’m going to show you a really quick way to make a case to donate. I’m also happy to report that one of my amazing sponsors, Daryl at Fabric Spark, has set up some specially priced kits to purchase and is offering a giveaway of a Tula Pink pillowcase kit! Giveaway is over; thank you for everyone who contributed!

Here’s some info Kelsey has shared with me to pass along:

This super quick tutorial may be a new fave! Use it to make some for charity, but for your own kids too! You can make each pillowcase with just one yard total of fabric! You’ll need 26″ x width of fabric for the main part of the pillowcase, and 10″ x width of fabric for the side band of the pillowcase. I don’t have a serger, so I used my overcast foot for this project.  If you don’t have either of those, a zigzag stitch will work in a pinch. 

Start by folding the 10″ wide piece in half, wrong sides together, matching the long edges, and press.

Now place the folded (narrower) strip, on top of the wider piece of fabric, matching the long edges, right sides together. Pin or clip in place and sew along that edge.

Now fold in half, right sides together, matching selvage ends. You probably need to trim a small amount at this point, otherwise your selvage will show through. Leaving the folded end open (yellow in my example) sew up bottom and remaining side. 

Turn right side out, and you’re done! 

Kelsey tells me each and every case is appreciated, so if you can send 5, 10, or 1, they all count, and truly make a difference. Do you have friends that sew? Why not get together and challenge yourselves to see how many you can make? My personal goal is for this post to generate 100 cases. Can we do it?!

Kelsey may be reached by email at ryanscaseforsmilesbc@hotmail.com 
You can mail your completed cases to:
Kelsey Funk 
19467 67A AVE 
Surrey, BC 
V4N 5T4

If you’re joining me from Mrs. H’s blog for the Companion Carpet Bag sew-along, welcome! As mentioned over there, here’s my tutorial to make your own vinyl handles. I’ve found a few tutorials on Pinterest, but none of them were exactly what I was looking for, so I decided to experiment a bit and come up with something on my own. I’m really pleased with how they turned out, and I think you’ll be pleased with your own pair too! They came together quite quickly and easily too! Please read all the way through before you try it yourself. If you have any questions, I’m happy to help as best I can, just send me a message through my contact page.

You’ll need vinyl of course. I used marine vinyl, but this same method should work with other vinyls. You’ll also need:

• 16/32″ cording – I don’t know they don’t just call it 1/2″ haha!
• leather sewing machine needle
• fusible web tape (like wondertape) – this is optional but very helpful
• wonder clips, or similar – pins won’t work, since they’ll leave holes in the vinyl
• zipper foot
• 4 x 1.5″ O-rings or rectangle rings
• fabric glue (like Beacon’s fabritac)
• Fabric paint to match your vinyl (like Tulip soft fabric paint in matte – don’t use “puffy” paint)
• small paint brush
• rivets and punch (optional)
• scotch tape
• thread to match vinyl 
• sewing machine and basic supplies

This sounds like a big list, but don’t let it intimidate you, many items you’ll already have, and others you can use with other projects.

Note: The size I’m using is just a personal preference. Please feel free to experiment with what you like best. I found that cutting the vinyl 6″ longer than the cording yields the best result. 

Cut 2 12″ pieces of cording and wrap up each end with scotch tape.

Cut 2 strips of vinyl measuring 4″ x 18″ and place a strip of wonder tape about 1/4″ away from one long edge of vinyl, then fold vinyl, matching long edges, with cording centred vertically inside. Use wonder clips to secure edges together. Repeat with remaining vinyl and cording for second handle.

Now bring your handles over to the machine, and, using your zipper foot with the needle position to the left, sew along the vinyl lengthwise as close to the cording as possible, starting at one end of the cording and stopping at the other end. Don’t forget to backstitch a bit and start and stop too. Also, a longer stitch length is better with vinyl; I used 3.4 for for mine. Depending on your vinyl, you may have troubles with your foot sticking to the vinyl. My regular zipper foot had no problem, but if yours sticks, try laying wax paper over top of the vinyl and rip it away when you’re finished. I’m not sure if you can get a teflon zipper foot, but if you can, it should work too!

It should look like this now, with loose, unsewn ends beyond the cording.

Now you can trim the excess long edges, leaving a scant 1/4″ beyond the stitching. You may want to trim more, this part is just personal preference.

This part is tricky to explain so I hope I do an ok job: You will need to trim the loose ends of the handles, along a tapered curve for about 1.5″, then straight for the last part of the loose end. I found it easier to put a wonder clip at the very end, to keep my pieces folded nicely and so my cutting was symmetrical. If you’re using 1.5″ rectangle rings, you’ll want the folded end to be just under 3/4″ wide (folded). It may be easier to cut 3/4″ away from fold, for 1.5″, then curve out toward the cording. Once you have that cut out, make the end slightly curved. Your piece should look like this pictured below. Repeat for remaining 3 ends (other end of this handle, and 2 on the other handle).

Now we feed the end through the ring, fold down and fit into open end at cording, this step is just a practice, to see if it fits, or needs additional trimming. The end should now look like this:

Once you have a good fit, lift up the end and stick some glue under there, and fold it back and secure with a wonder clip until the glue dries. Repeat until both ends are done on each handle.  At this point, you can add your rivets if you choose to use them.  Once the glue dries, bring the handle back to the machine, with the zipper foot still in place and continue the line of stitching as far as you can to the end, being careful not to hit the ring with your needle.

 The final step is painting the raw edges of the cut vinyl. It doesn’t fray, but most of the vinyls have a backing that shows when it’s cut. If you look closely at store bought vinyl handles, you’ll notice they’re painted too! I used Tulip matte finish fabric paint. I couldn’t find a colour to match, so I mixed some and I’m pretty pleased with how well my first attempt matches! I bought the cheapest set of paint brushes I could find and they worked just fine for this job. The trickiest part to paint is around the ring, so you may actually decide to paint that part before you glue and sew it up. I didn’t want to risk it because I knew my mixed colour would dry up, and I didn’t think I’d get a perfect match a second time! If you get it on the vinyl, just wipe it while it’s wet. If you choose to do a second coat, make sure the first coat is fully dry first.

Once the paint is dry, curve your handles and store them that way to help form the curve of how they’ll be on your completed bag. Now you’re done! 

If you follow this tutorial, I’d love to see your handles! Upload your picture at my contact form, and I’ll share them here!